Keratin binding

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Posted by Nick on August 8, 2002 at 21:50:52:

In reply to: Re: What exactly are terps doing? posted by Catherine Cartwright Jones on August 8, 2002 at 16:40:42:

What causes the lawsones to bind with the keratin?
Indigols are hydrophobic as well, but if they won't bond with
keratin, there's not much use for them.

: : On a molecular level, what are monoterpine alcohols doing to the
: : hennotannic acid molecules which facilitates such fast and
: : dyeing of keratins?
: As far as I can tell (taking deep breath here, with a caveat the
: of a medium dog):
: Because lawsone is hydrophobic, it will dissolve readilly in a
: monoterpene alcohol, therefore you get far more of the lawsones
: available to penetrate and bind with the keratin. The acid breaks
: down the vegetal matter and faciliates dye release, then the
: monoterpene alcohol facilitates lawsone availability. Therefore,
: lawsone is made available to enter the skin cell.
: The monoterpene alcohol reacting with the lawsone within the skin
: cells contribute to more rapid and deeper level oxidation and
: darkening than can be achieved without monoterpenes under the same
: conditions of temperature and time. Perhaps the alcohols are
: evaporating and oxidizing the lawsones as they go. Therefore,
: henna gets darker than unterped henna, over the 72 hour period
: following application, and this is particularly visible in the upper
: layers of the stain.
: Contrary to prior perception, monoterpenes do not contribute to a
: shallow henna penetration. Unterped and terped henna stains in a
: comparison test disappered on the same day.


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